Ghosting by Jie Ni | MA Fashion Design Technology 2024 | London College of Fashion | UAL

London College of Fashion

UAL Showcase Collections

LCF24 + London Fashion Week

This project critically examines the issue of gender bias, attributing it to toxic masculinity and the consequent undervaluation of femininity in various industries. The study seeks to redefine masculinity through an inclusive approach highlighting femininity and masculinity.

Beyond Binary

model wearing red satin dress moving freely

The project aims to challenge established norms in fashion design by harnessing the liberating potential of unconventional methods, particularly free pattern cutting, to create collections that defy convention and champion authenticity. The project involves hands-on exploration, including pattern and toile making, to cultivate distinctive silhouettes and investigate how various fabrics harmonize with these free patterns.

Odyssey from Ayahuasca to Intuitive Pattern Making

The design methodology for this project focuses on innovation in tailoring, developing a unique design approach by combining a hybrid skeleton structure in hair pile and nylon with research into polar bear construction to break down and reorganise garment structures. The collection also incorporates fabric dyeing, colour spraying techniques and fabric shrinkage into the design methodology. The same design methodology has been used to create the matching footwear and gloves.

POLARMAN

Kineticut aims to create a new interpretation of tailoring based on unconventional techniques that can provide a wider range of movement. Movement is the primary outcome alongside the depiction of male muscularity, considering these elements as the defining incarnations of masculinity. The garments are created through the combination of traditional sartorial canons (e.g. constructions and design features) and structures created by overlaying different panels, which are then interlinked.

KINETICUT

The Last Dance is the outcome of a creative dialogue between designer Taskin Goec and a custom trained AI model that served as his design collaborator. In this era of mixed reality, where the digital and tangible seamlessly entwine, our standards, desires, and fears undergo a transformative adaptation. As the purely material world dissolves into 
glossy screens, a yearning for authenticity, for rawness and grime, takes root. This collection embodies the essence of a bouquet dipped in bin juice. The looks are rich in texture, physically achieved through combinations of pleating, fraying, and printing techniques; in digital space, these textures are the result of intricate cloth simulations and procedural node setups.

The Last Dance

Jiayi Mao’s final collection project &amp;lt;RIPPLE&amp;gt; aims to innovate the traditional pattern cutting method and to find out how the foundation of the corset and tailoring are implemented to build garments with fluidity with a view to achieve gravitational and anti-gravitational cutting in menswear. This project also aims to explore how traditional tailoring techniques could be combined with corsetry techniques and be used in the garment manufacturing process to produce new forms of garment structure.

RIPPLE

The aim of this project is to explore the pattern extension cutting methods and the potential for innovation. The project will investigate how the extension pattern works on garments for men. While at the same time, investigating colour and fabric, to adapt into today’s market.

Extension

This project pursues an environmentally friendly concept that would innovate the form of menswear through the combination of down and suit jacket materials, with a full range of garments that would be digitally printed to create a unique identity.

Greed

This project transcends fashion, offering a profound reflection on cultural identity. The incorporation of affordable London materials showcases resourcefulness, echoing punk&#39;s DIY ethos.

PUNKED TRIBAL RESONANCE

A man wearing a hooded coat standing under a large canopy.

With today&#39;s sustainable fashion, many luxury brands are joining the &quot;No Fur Movement&quot; by banning the use of fur in their collections. Fashion colleges and students also have a responsibility to consider the environmental impact of fur and be creative in finding alternative materials. Meanwhile, zoomorphia is gaining ground in the fashion industry as a new way of connecting people with animals. Wool and cashmere are often used in high-end menswear as natural and sustainable materials. Can they offer the warmth and cosy functionality of fur with the visual appeal of fur?

DRUID

Fitting notes of drapes, and look 5 images

Through personal reflections on self-confidence and her own daily feelings of imposter phenomena, Emily explores how fashion can be used as a tool for self-confidence, crafting pieces that dominate space and command a distinctive ‘presence’ for the wearer.

Imposter: Extensions of Self

Two looks of menswear collection, first one cream brown denim look and second green look's shirt with back fringe close-up.

The ‘Howdy’ S/S 2024 collection for men questions the authenticity of the cowboy image. It includes a sculptural outer layer of deformed human body bones belted onto the garments. The bones represent a static and immutable concept of what can be considered a real cowboy whilst the garments embody the continuing change in the cowboy&#39;s wardrobe as informed by a study in archetypes and their function in relation to the cowboy&#39;s role.

Howdy

&quot;GHOSTING&quot; explores in what ways ghosting photograph print fabric can become a metaphor for both exposing and disguising the emotional strength and vulnerability of men. This project explored how cultural and social norms affect men&#39;s emotional expression and how contradictory body language posture and clothing can reflect conflicting and complex emotions, analyze how ghosting overlapping photography represents multiple emotions, along with how it can be applied.

GHOSTING

Portfolio page showing the collections line up with outerwear and garments informed by historical research and needlework references

WomensWork is a collection by Georgia Gough that uncovers the forgotten histories of women involved in the textile and garment making industries and highlights the value of craft from both individual and collective angles.

WomensWork

Biomimicry is about valuing nature for what we can learn about ourselves, our purpose, and our connection to each other and our home on earth. That’s what inspires “bambosynthesis”, a novel concept that&amp;nbsp;fuses bamboo-inspired design principles&amp;nbsp;with human functional needs in dressing. Drawing from the anatomical resemblance between human joints and bamboo nodes, a strategic folding of the pattern-cutting stage around the joints is created for the expansion and alteration of the original line positions in order to create folds that mimic the structure of bamboo nodes.

Bambosynthesis

Two men with their heads down, lighting candles on a plate

The project &quot;INNER BEAST&quot; started from the book and film &quot;American Psycho&quot; and explores the line between fiction and reality in relation to dualities of masculinity. Beneath the surface of everyday life and work, there might be a hidden, more primal aspect to the male psyche.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This collection utilizes reversible garments to translate this duality, aiming to create a new concept of a reversible wardrobe for men.

INNER BEAST

This page showed a journey of alternating, developing, and toiling fashion garment.

The project imagines attire for women less influenced by patriarchal societies. It is inspired from the civilization of Minoan Crete (2600-1100 B.C.E), where women held significant roles and worshipped the Mother Goddess of nature.

The Unseen Echoes Of Yesterday

This project is a complete Spring/Summer resort menswear collection, aims at creating lightweight clothing that will make the men wearing them more comfortable.

CAMO SKY

Blending traditional and contemporary craft techniques, this collection is a direct response to Molly&#39;s experience of establishing a welfare centred production chain, to present a narrative that fosters greater empathy and a realignment of our values.

Skin Story

The Master&#39;s project, Équus, represents an expansive exploration into the ergonomic design of saddles, meticulously deconstructing and scrutinizing the intricate leather manufacturing processes that underpin their creation.

Xiatong Zheng

A man sitting with a candle holder in his hand

This project applies the decorative cultural elements of the Rococo period, the development of table etiquette, and the trends sparked by modern molecular gastronomy techniques to fashion design, incorporating them into pattern cutting and innovative textiles.

The Metaphor of Food

A graphic black background with "Forgotten Traces" written in white.

By exploring the traces left on the wall by the posters, the project is interpreted through peeling, tearing, combined with tailoring and papier-mâché.

FORGOTTEN TRACES

The outcome of the project is a collection of 8 looks—24 garments crafting sportswear functions into tailored finishes.

This project identifies what it means to be a middle-aged man in contemporary society concerning the current state of masculinity. With a more specific impression of the demographic, the project aims to provide a balance between identity expression and functionality through menswear design.

#BÀBÀCORE

Armor, as a form of dress that strongly displays male characteristics and traits, has often been inextricably connected to masculine identity. This project aims to re-introduce contemporary menswear to the origins of shaping form explored in medieval plate armor.

ROUNDING OFF

The project aims to incorporate these personal characteristics into the fashion design by employing curves, straight lines, and color blocks to achieve visual balance in garments. Inspired by the awe of the ocean and the concept of free diving, the project incorporates triangular and inverted triangular silhouettes into designs.

Deepest Breath

LEFT: floral red jacket, yellow shirt and red shorts RIGHT: floral purple top and celadon trousers

This collection aims to wear &quot;paradise&quot; on the body through the research of pattern, structure and performative function. The aim is to let the flowers take root in the heart and bloom around the body.

FLORAMAN

designed for plus-size men with a view to flexible sizing from S to 4XL

The ‘Curved Poetics’ collection is primarily designed for plus-size men with a view to flexible sizing from S to 4XL achieved by the engineering of waistlines and body volume in pattern cutting, colour and print.

CURVES POETICS

The project 'Feather for Sugar' has the aim to create a new methodology of pattern cutting combined with pleating techniques to balance garments made 

The project &#39;Feather for Sugar&#39; has the aim to create a new methodology of pattern cutting combined with pleating techniques to balance garments made of two different weights of fabric.

Feather for Sugar

The whole collections comes from a profound awakening about homesickness, starting rethinking youwangzhou&#39;s experience of living in a foreign country for two years, and found that his mom who has lived with him for more than 20 years but now has not been with him for a long time. And when him stepped into a foreign country, all connections got broken, his mother divorced and became a monk, under restrictions, the number of encounters became less and less. In the case of limited space and chances to meet, it all makes him start to use fashion to present the process and see how he can reconnect with her with fashion.

LOVE YOU=YOUWANGZHOU,ZHOU= EUPHORIA IS THE NEW RED

This image is about my collection of lineup.

This collection has stemmed from Zihao He&#39;s experiences related to their gender identity, such as changing clothes in the Emergency Access, which highlighted the process of redefining and reaffirming their sense of self and identity as they once again immersed in a diverse social and cultural environment.

I AM A CONTAINER III

Project &quot;Dawn&quot; was born out of a concern for men&#39;s suicide rates and mental health issues, and its research reveals the dominance of masculinity and group oppression through an in-depth examination of men&#39;s emotional repression under the patriarchal system. With the aim of exploring the root causes and promoting healing, the researcher has analysed the root of natural vitality and its savage but vivid growth gestures and powerful extension force through the observation of the extension force of plants in nature.

DAWN

Blue White Stripe shirt, orange pillow pants, rubber duck screenprint

The ‘Sook Sabai&#39; collection by No Pun Intended tackles the issue of societal expectations and the overworked culture in Thai society. Designer Pattanakulkumjorn, who grew up in a conservative parental background, seeks to challenge the standards imposed on children and raise awareness of the importance of comfort in life.

Sook Sabai' (Happiness and Comfort)

&#39;Narcissus&#39; focuses on developing a menswear collection incorporating patterns and prints. The supporting research aims to explore how mirrored menswear design and technology can be utilized to present narcissistic masculinity by bringing together the relationship between metaphorical mirroring and narcissism.

Narcissus

The collection reflectes the importance of interpersonal communication and emotional connection.

HUG HER, TOUCH HER

The “Spero” collection is dedicated to creating a meaningful narrative through fashion. It draws inspiration from the shapes and motifs of the Ukrainian pre-ancestral Trypillia-Cucuteni civilization. This collection seamlessly blends an artisanal approach, incorporating traditional Gutsul weaving techniques, with an innovative pattern-cutting approach.

SPERO

By examining the history of men&#39;s clothing and masculinity, this project has found the military uniform as the &quot;ideal&quot; man&#39;s garment as it shapes society&#39;s ideal masculinity through hourglass clothing patterns and military embroidery.

Delicate Violence

&quot;All commences in tranquility, and concludes in serenity, where the journey itself becomes a symphony of calm whispers.&quot;

SAHERON

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